Kristin's Beaded Gown: Applying the Lace, Part 2

Oh HELLO THIS WAS WAY MORE DIFFICULT THAN I HAD IMAGINED. This heavy, heavy, solidly beaded border is NOT EASY. It's just soooo muuuch beading on a verrrry larrrrge scale. We had already decided to avoid the border in the sleeves and finish the edges by piecing together lighter sections of lace, so that was totally easy, no prob, all done.

And I was able to use the heavy border along the waistline in both the skirt and bodice - it laid beautifully and made a lot of sense. THE NECKLINE, HOWEVER. When I tried using the border there, as originally planned, the entire thing looked super dated - like "Bob Mackie does Victorian" (not that I necessarily hate that, but there's a time and place, I guess, and if you're not going to pair it with a Cher headpiece, then what's the point?). I really had to play around to keep it modern, and admittedly, I was starting to go nuts, but I eventually opted to skip the border there altogether and cut beaded motifs out from the middle of the lace, placing them along the neckline to provide a bit more coverage on the chest, and winding them into the vines traveling up from the waistline. I think it looks really great on the form. We'll see how it plays on the body.

I still haven't figured out exactly what I'm doing along the waistline - I think it's best to see it all on the bride before moving forward with any final decisions. I'm hoping the solid beading will blend together fairly easily and the band of silk will cinch everything in and break it up a little bit and help balance the silk in the skirt with the sparkle up top. 

Draping beaded lace applique onto luxury wedding gown - by Veronica Sheaffer

Draping Beaded Lace Applique on Bodice

Sewing beaded Chantilly lace bodice of luxury bridal gown
Draping and sewing beaded lace applique onto luxury bridal gown

Border lace along the bottom with vines traveling up the bodice. Hand-stitched and excess netting cut away. Two beaded motifs are cut from the center of the lace and placed along the neckline to provide more coverage. 

Notice that the base layer of lace isn't symmetrical - I wanted a random pattern peeking out from behind the beading. There's also a bit of beaded vine extending past the armhole - that will continue onto the sleeve, to blend seamlessly. The scalloped edge along the bottom will all be cut away when blending it into the beading in the skirt. 

Cutting and Sewing Beaded Lace Sleeves

Cutting beaded lace for sleeve - luxury bridal
Sewing beaded lace sleeve for luxury bridal gown - Veronica Sheaffer blog
Sewing beaded lace motif in luxury bridal gown - Veronica Sheaffer blog

Using the underlining as a template, cut around any bits of the pattern that extend beyond the sleeve. Sew the sleeve seam, leaving those sections free, then stitch the excess into place on the other side of the seamline by hand, following the pattern in the lace. Clip away the netting. If the pattern goes beyond the armhole seams (as it does here at the shoulder), do the same when the sleeves are sewn into the bodice.