Kristin's Beaded Gown: Applying the Lace, Part 1

I could honestly, happily just do this for the rest of my life - this super delicate, detailed hand sewing. I never want to cut and sew another lining ever again, I'll tell you that much - Y A W N - but this always feels good, even when I'm reeling under the stress of a deadline. Fortunately, I'm deep into the applique portion of this gown and can sort of disappear into it for the next few days. UNfortunately, I have to sew a lining too. W A H.

Anyway ... the dress! I started draping the lace in the skirt first, which I wouldn't do normally, but the bodice overlay needed to be recut, and I had to keep moving to stay on schedule between fittings. And that was great, because in the skirt, the heavy beading in the border became super obvious - just way too much to use as the bottom edging, as originally planned. So I flipped it, using the border more as a solid along the waistline, with the flowers and vines trailing down over the hipline.

Totally the right decision. The organic edge makes it feel lighter and more delicate, and just fresher - the opposite of that heavy, dated, beaded, bridal look, you know? I KNOW YOU KNOW.


Draping and Sewing Beaded Lace to Bridal Gown - in Progresss

*These seams have not yet been pressed, by the way. You practically have to take them in at every fitting, so always best to wait until the end.*

I brought the scalloped border a bit over the waistline, into the bodice, because that's what made the most sense over the hipline. There will be a thin band of silk to cinch in the waist, so I'll probably have to cut away all of that beading to remove bulk, but I need to get it working with the bodice overlay first, before making final decisions. It would be easier to leave it as is, and incorporate it into the bodice beading, but it's really, REALLY thick, and I don't want to add an extra 1/4" all around her waistline. Regardless, I cut away that eyelash edge, because it's HUGE. I'm thinking it's too big to use along the neckline as well, so I'll probably need to think up another finish there. 

I hand sewed a teeny, tiny stitch all along the flowers and beads and then cut away the excess net, leaving a wild edge. I love it.

Next up is the bodice lace! I'll show you how I laid out the embellished lace, so that the pattern winds around the body and sleeves. This bodice has the particular challenge of needing that heavy border both at the waistline AND neckline, while staying light and delicate. 

 

Previously in this series: Kristin's Beaded Gown: Design and Fitting